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Theme · Wartime

Lipstick as Morale

Under rationing and blackout, a painted mouth became a symbol of resolve, and beauty advertising learned to speak to the working woman.

War might have ended beauty advertising. Instead it repurposed it. With cosmetics rationed and factories full of women, the industry reframed a painted mouth as patriotic duty. Tangee's War, Women and Lipstick argued that keeping one's color was a small act of resolve, a refusal to let the enemy dim the home front.

The audience changed with the message. Jergens Lotion spoke to the hands doing war work, and the foundation houses shaped a practical, capable silhouette. Beauty advertising learned, for the first time, to address a woman as a worker and a citizen, not only as an object of romance, a register it never entirely gave back.

The arc across the decades
1941

War, Women and Lipstick

Tangee frames color as morale and patriotic duty, and women keep it on through rationing.

Tangee ›
1940s

The hands that do war work

Jergens speaks directly to the woman on the factory line.

Jergens ›
1940s

A capable silhouette

Maidenform's foundations shape the practical, working figure of the decade.

Maidenform ›
The houses
See it in the record
Maidenform, 1926
Maidenform1926 Ladies' Home Journal
Tangee, 1935
Tangee1935 Screenland
Maidenform, 1961
Maidenform1961 Photoplay
Jergens, 1952
Jergens1952 Screenland
Coty, 1934
Coty1934 Photoplay
Maidenform, 1927
Maidenform1927 Ladies' Home Journal
Jergens, 1918
Jergens1918 Photoplay
Tangee, 1944
Tangee1944 Photoplay

Real public-domain advertisements the engine identified for these houses. Click any page to read it at the Internet Archive.

Open these houses in the record →
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