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Trends across the century

The ideas that run through beauty.

Cross-decade themes, threaded through the record and grounded in the measured houses and their real advertisements.

Advertising

The Invention of Desire

How a bar of soap learned to sell longing, and taught the whole century to do the same.

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Celebrity

The Borrowed Face

How Hollywood lent its stars to the beauty counter, and invented celebrity endorsement at industrial scale.

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Product

Beauty in the Handbag

The compact, the lipstick, the powder puff: how cosmetics left the dressing table and went out into the street.

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Wartime

Lipstick as Morale

Under rationing and blackout, a painted mouth became a symbol of resolve, and beauty advertising learned to speak to the working woman.

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Fragrance

The Couturier's Scent

How perfume became couture: the great French houses turn a bottle into a luxury with a designer's name on it.

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The Studios

Hollywood Sells the Face

The Technicolor close-up made a complexion a national concern, and Hollywood and the beauty counter became one industry.

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