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The Muse Parlor Folio · The 1940s

Beauty and the War

Under rationing, a painted mouth becomes a small act of resolve.

War might have ended beauty advertising. Instead it repurposed it. With cosmetics rationed and the factories full of women, the industry reframed a painted mouth as patriotic duty, and Tangee argued that keeping one's color was a refusal to let the enemy dim the home front.

The audience changed with the message. Jergens spoke to the hands doing war work, and the foundation houses shaped a practical, capable silhouette. Beauty advertising learned, for the first time, to address a woman as a worker and a citizen.

“Color as a small, permitted luxury in an age of restraint.”

Pond's
Pond's, Photoplay, 1940. The engagement portrait, and the cream behind it.
Lux
Lux, Photoplay, 1942. Nine out of ten screen stars, and the tally is the argument.