Clear, sourced answers about a century of beauty advertising, each traced to the measured record.
Woodbury's Facial Soap and its 1911 line, A skin you love to touch, written by Helen Lansdowne Resor at J. Walter Thompson. By pairing a bar of soap with a man about to kiss a woman's hand, it sold a feeling rather than a product, the first use of sex appeal in American advertising and the beginning of modern beauty advertising. See The Invention of Desire and the 1910s.
1921. It was the first perfume sold under a couturier's name and the first built on abstract aldehydes rather than a single flower, which turned fragrance from an apothecary good into couture. Guerlain's Shalimar, Lanvin's Arpege, and Bourjois' Evening in Paris followed. See The Couturier's Scent.
The Hollywood studios and the beauty houses, in the 1930s. Lux Toilet Soap printed the tally, nine out of ten screen stars, and Max Factor sold the make-up of the stars. It is the template a century of influencer marketing still runs on. See The Borrowed Face.
A measure of how much of a category's advertising attention a house commanded, weighting each appearance by its quality rather than counting raw mentions. Each placement earns a Placement Quality Score, outlet authority times a weighted sum of prominence, message, visual, sentiment, and exclusivity, and a house's share of the total quality in a period is its quality-weighted share of voice. See the methodology.
A vision model reads the actual page scans, not the text layer. Beauty brand names render as logos and display type that optical character recognition cannot see, so a two-stage vision method finds each appearance and a verifier reconciles it against the printed word before it is counted. See the methodology.
1900 to 1963, the public-domain window. The corpus spans the fan magazines (Photoplay, Screenland, Modern Screen), the women's service titles (Ladies' Home Journal, The Delineator), and the society and fashion titles (Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Vanity Fair, Munsey's). Browse it all in the record.
In the society titles, Guerlain, Bourjois, and Houbigant led, alongside Yardley and the newly couture Chanel. Fragrance advertising lived in Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, where the fan magazines' mass beauty never reached. See the 1920s.
Tangee's 1941 wartime campaign, which framed a painted mouth as morale and patriotic duty so that women kept their color on through rationing. It marks the moment beauty advertising learned to address a woman as a worker and citizen. See Lipstick as Morale.
No. It is descriptive share of voice only. The instruments that would identify a causal effect on sales, in particular branded search, do not exist before roughly 2004, so the archive reports how houses appeared in the record, never what that appearance caused.
Yes. The measured series is served as an open, CORS-enabled JSON API, and the methodology, entity specification, and validation gates are published for reproduction and extension. Muse Parlor works with graduate programs to run and host studies on the corpus. See the methodology.
We build a house's hundred-year presence curve from the record, sourced and defensible.
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