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The hundred-year view

A century of presence, measured.

A quality-weighted share of voice for the beauty, fragrance, and fashion houses of the last century, read from the digitized magazine record and scored on the same engine as the live model. Fan magazines carry the beauty story; the public-domain society titles carry scent and couture. Descriptive by design, never causal.

459Weighted placements
38Houses tracked
3Verticals
9Outlets
1903–1961Span
Quality-weighted share of voice
0%22%44%66%88%1900s1910s1920s1930s1940s1950s1960s
MaybellinePond'sWoodburyElizabeth ArdenLuxJergensCoty
Share of voice within the beauty competitive set, by decade, across the whole corpus. Toggle the vertical to see fragrance and fashion, and the channel to isolate paid advertising. Each house competes only within its own category, so a scent house is measured against scent, not cold cream.

Strongest placements

The highest Placement Quality Scores in the record, each a real page. Click a quote to read it at the Internet Archive.

HouseYearOutletChannelPQSEvidence
Warner's1920Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.60Warner's Rust-Proof Corsets ›
Lux1921Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.60Clear brand name 'Lux' in headline 'The makers ›
Elizabeth Arden1927Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.60ELIZABETH ARDEN ›
Bourjois1924Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.60BOURJOIS ›
Yardley1930Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.50Yardley & Co., Ltd., 33 Old Bond Street, Londo ›
Pond's1922Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.40POND'S Cold Cream Vanishing Cream ›
Pond's1923Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.40Pond's Cold Cream, Pond's Vanishing Cream, The ›
Yardley1925Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.38Yardley's Old English Lavender Soap ›
Pond's1923Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.38Pond's Cold Cream ›
Pond's1925Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.36Pond's Two Creams ›
Pond's1921Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.36POND'S Cold Cream & Vanishing Cream ›
Pond's1929Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.36Pond's delicious Freshener and exquisite Tissu ›
Elizabeth Arden1926Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.36ELIZABETH ARDEN ›
Palmolive1929Ladies' Home Journaladvertising1.36Palmolive Soap ›

Earned versus paid

Most presence is bought. The houses that also earned editorial coverage, the rarer and more credible voice, read differently, and the split is itself a signal of prestige.

HouseAdvertisingEditorialEarned share
Coty261840.9%
Elizabeth Arden32717.9%
Helena Rubinstein26618.8%
Jergens23414.8%
Guerlain7436.4%
Hudnut6333.3%
Pond's4224.5%
Lux2527.4%
Max Factor18210.0%
Maidenform13213.3%
Lady Esther5228.6%
Pompeian3240.0%
Jantzen1266.7%
Lanvin1266.7%
Catalina1266.7%
Chanel02100.0%
Tangee2214.3%
Woodbury2114.5%
Bourjois1416.7%
Yardley1019.1%
Houbigant7112.5%
Munsingwear4120.0%
Caron3125.0%
Cole of California01100.0%

How the score works

Each placement earns a Placement Quality Score, outlet authority times a weighted sum of five attributes (prominence, message, visual, sentiment, exclusivity). Outlet authority is circulation-indexed. Share of voice is each house's share of total quality within its vertical and period. Attribution comes from the channel, editorial earned above paid. Extraction is two-stage vision, not OCR, because the brand names render as logos the text layer misses.

Read the full methodology →

The record at a glance

What the corpus covers today.

Beauty housesPond's, Lux, Coty, Max Factor, Arden and more
Fragrance housesGuerlain, Bourjois, Houbigant, Yardley, Hudnut and more
Fashion housesMaidenform, Vanity Fair, Jantzen, Warner's and more
Fan magazinesPhotoplay, Screenland, Modern Screen
Society titlesVogue, Harper's Bazaar, Vanity Fair, Munsey's
Rights windowPublic domain, through 1963